In our loosely planned itinerary, the next stop was going to be the region of Charlevoix. However, Gille and Pierrette, the Quebeçois couple we met at the church with a view, encouraged us to first stop at L’Isle d’Orleans, a small historic island on our way. We’ve learned that suggestions of locals are usually the best advice to follow, so we headed over the 1063 feet suspension bridge, and entered a rural landscape where time had stood still.
Vendeuse at Fromagerie
Manny and I usually explore a new area by driving or walking around to get the flavor of the place, stopping when something catches our attention. However, when I consulted my AAA guidebook, I learned that the small island (20 miles long and 4 miles wide) was one of the first colonies of New France, discovered in 1536 by Jacques Cartier, hence loaded with historic significance.
For me, the task of reading from a travel guide as we drive and trying to enjoy the scenery are mutually exclusive, so we decided to take the recommendation of AAA and rent a guided audio tour at the tourist information center, conveniently located at the entrance to the first of the six unique municipalities that make up the island. Priced at only $17.00 for a 24 hour rental, it seemed like a good deal.
We popped in the first of the 2 CDs and did as instructed, listening to the first 3 tracks in the parking lot. It was all down hill from there. Obviously, the voice on the CD has no idea how fast you are driving, and you have no idea where you are going, so we didn’t have a clue if what we were seeing was what the the CD was describing. After a half hour of wondering where the hell we were and stressing out over it, we decided to return the audio tour and go back to our tried and true method of fumbling around.
Seeing the distressful look on my face as I rushed into the tourist office practically in tears, the pleasant woman behind the counter gladly returned our money and instead handed me a low-tech paper guide. We scanned the brochure and the name La Boulange jumped out at us, advertising gourmet croissants and fine pizzas, the two things Manny could live on exclusively.
Unfortunately when we arrived at the gourmet bakery, we found it closed!
La Boulange - Ferme??!!
Their hours were as follows: Opening is always from 7:30. Opened Friday, Saturday and Sunday of Easter. From April 13-29 and the month of November and December from Friday to Sunday. May and October: opened from Thursday thru Sunday. From June 6-17 and the month of September, opened from Wednesday to Sunday. From June 20-September 3, opened every day. Opened Thanksgiving, October 8. Opened December 24th and December 31.
All we could do was shake our heads and laugh. The quintessential croissant was not to be had, at least not today, a Tuesday in late September.
We consulted the travel guide once again and noticed many farms that raised ducks and geese. Since we enjoy a nice smooth liver pâté from time to time, Manny and I hoped to find some to spread on a great baguette when—and if—we found one.
Luis Gomez of Ferme d'Oc
At Ferme d’Oc, we met Luis Gomez, a sweet young Mexican man who had emigrated from Ciudad Juarez a few years ago to live with his aunt in Quebec and “to make a fresh start”. He instructed us on the various products made from goose and duck liver. We learned that what we had been calling “pâté” was actually “foie gras”. Unfortunately, Luis was out of stock. (No wonder we were surprised when the pastry we bought called “pâté de viande” turned out to be a crust filled with ground meat).
Duck Eggs
So we stopped down the road at the picturesque Ferme au goût d’autrefois. We entered the rustic shop filled with antiques, old farm tools and a basket of huge eggs. When we inquired about foie gras, the kind proprietress explained that they don’t force feed their ducks and geese, so they don’t have enough to sell.
Au goût d'autrefois
They serve the delicacy only on special occasions in their small restaurant. We bought two chicken eggs and four of the gigantic duck eggs, thanked her for the information and said au revoir.
Delicious pizzas and wine
Now ravenous, we drove on and found Bistro de la Plage, a cute restaurant right on the beach specializing in—of all things—pizza. Needless to say, Manny was ecstatic. We sat by the window overlooking the St. Lawrence, sipping our half bottle of Beaujolais and enjoyed one of the best caesar salads and thin crust pizzas we could remember. Who would have guessed?!
But the best part was yet to come… The pièce de résistance was the place where we spent the night: Camping Isle d’Orleans campground. It was arrestingly beautiful albeit —at $55 per night— the most expensive campground we’ve ever stayed at.
Isle d' Orleans Campground
What a delightful interlude, traveling along with you on L’isle d’Orleans! Feels like I’ve been to France, almost! You two make us jealous. Whatta life! I’m glad you are having such good times, and especially glad you are sharing it with your friends. Do keep it up. And keep those phone calls coming to Ohio, Roz. This election is likely to be a cliffhanger.
Nancy and Ron
Email from Rod Bruckdorfer:
Thanks. I looked at your blog. Traveling must be good for you, you both look really great.
Elections Tuesday. If one believes in health care and the women’s rights, there is only party that cares about these issues .
Rod
Email from Patty Schumacher:
Been enjoying your posts BUT are you getting home for election day?
And you missed sandy…which is definitely a good thing.
Hope youre having a wonderful time. It looks like u’ve been enjoying good weather instead of all this craziness that’s been on the east coast (including the snow storms in the WVmountains).
Take care and enjoy the rest of your travels!
Patty
Email from Christine Wolf:
Hola Roz y Manuel, la verdad es que disfruto mucho leyendo sus reportajes.
Me parece interesantisimo lo que están haciendo. Sigan nomás.
Saludos Christine W.
Hi you guys.
Stop looking for the quintessential croissant. I found it a long time ago in North Vancouver.
Every Saturday I make a pilgrimage to get my croissant for breakfast, crunchy on the outside and soft inside.
I do not get it from a boulangerie, I get it from a patisserie run by a third generation pastry chef and chocolate praline maker, Thomas Haas, considered to be among the 10 best in North America. Believe you me, he is the best.
If and when you reach this corner of Canada, I will gladly guide you to pastry and chocolate heaven.
I’ll bet you will agree with me once you taste the goodies.
Until then, enjoy your trip across the US and Canada.
Carlos
Email from Karin Ruggeberg:
Hola Roz y Manuel,
Tambien yo disfruto leyendo sus aventuras en su blog y viendo los lugares que visitan.
saludos carinosos,
Karin
Email from Peter Frohmader:
I enjoy some of the adventures of my old friend Manolin, un monsieur d’un certain age.
The Province of Quebec is a a beautiful place to visit. I will never forget that I spent the coldest day of my life in Quebec City, overlooking the St. Lawrence river from the Chateau Frontenac. Outside temperature was 35 below.
I am also forever grateful to mon Vieux for dragging me into a French course at the Alliance Francaise at Homero Avenue back in the sixties.
I never really liked the language, but I have survived with the five trimesters I went through.
Keep up the the good work. Don’t bring me any pate de fois gras, I don’t like it.
Big hugs, Peter
We always enjoy keeping up with you two! Great reading and always lots of great tidbits not found in any audio tour…
I have given up trying to read/search/enjoy the ride all at once! My new plan has been to read all about everything I can before we go, then do a little refreshing when we set out. Now that we have Lizzie I will be doing A LOT more walking in the thick of it type stuff. Niko doesn’t like the whole “walk around and explore” style so with him I have to plan -which is still fun!- but since Lizzie is young and impressionable I will mold her to fit my travel buddy needs… That’s what kids are for right?!
Is it English friendly up in that area or are they as picky with their language as they are with their open/closed days haha. Is french a prerequisite?
Oooo and I have recently had a fried glazed croissant and it changed my outlook on life. I know, I know, it butchers the idea of a true croissant but its just so tasty! Fluffy delicate pastery crossed with a donut? A win in my book.