The wonderful world of Nashville was like a warm-up act for the great superstar, Memphis. Center stage is Beale Street, which is cordoned off on the weekends, making the three block long corridor feel like one giant block party. While Nashville plays mainly Country, in Memphis the Blues and Rock and Roll rule.
We were planning to eat a late lunch before launching into the music scene, but were quickly lured by some great Motown sounds coming from B.B. King’s place at the corner of Beale and 2nd St. Since it was only Friday afternoon, we got front row seats at the bar and for the price of a beer, we were treated to the sweet sound of a group of Stax Academy alumni, the next generation of music greats.
When we arrived, a handsome French tourist was on stage dancing animatedly with one of the singers, a look of complete contentment on his face. About our age, he and a few friends were on a music odyssey similar to ours. He confided that he felt like he was a character in one of his own dreams, so thrilled to be living his fantasy.
Stax Academy Singers
I knew just what he meant. Music truly is the great equalizer, the world’s common denominator.
“We’ll put the South in your Mouth”
Three huge filets arrived accompanied by a substantial portion of steamed red potatoes (a nod to health) and homemade coleslaw. It was moist, not greasy and surprisingly delicious, without the fishy flavor I expected of catfish.
We walked carefree up and down the three blocks with music ringing from every bar and even on the street, where we bumped into our old friends from Clarksdale, Sean “Bad” Apple and Martin “Big Boy” Grant of All Night Long Blues Band, who were plying the crowd with their infectious sound.
Sean “Bad” Apple
Martin “Big Boy” Grant R.I.P.
Here’s our take on Memphis’s Mojo
A “mean” harmonica called to us and we entered the world of Rum Boogie Cafe’s Blues Hall, where Vince Johnson and His Plantation All Stars were just getting started playing some soulful tunes. When we crossed the threshold, we entered a juke joint of the distant past with its small stage, smoky atmosphere, peeling paint and faded posters touting long ago events.
Vince Johnson
We left the Blues Hall and didn’t walk more than a couple of blocks before a lively Rock and Roll Band caught our attention.
Mid-South Navy Band
As we sauntered over to the huge Fedex outdoor arena, my eyes couldn’t believe what my ears were hearing.
A six-piece band decked out in Navy dress whites were giving a perfect Michael Jackson rendition, as the two good-looking lead singers mesmerized the crowd with their swinging hips and sexy style. They were fantastic: great moves, a great stage presence, and a great sound. I thought for sure these guys were like the Village People, dressed in sailor costumes for effect. Then I saw their banner: the Mid-South Navy Band. If the Navy would like more women to enlist, they should send this group on tour to every recruiting office in the entire USA!
Patty Harper and Faultline
The Rum Boogie Cafe
I also took the opportunity to try fried-green tomatoes, another Southern specialty made famous by the movie of the same name starring Kathy Bates. My conclusion: fried pickles win, hands down.
Next stop, the famous Jerry Lee Lewis Café and Honky Tonk, opened May 2013 and filled with Lewis memorabilia from his costumes to his motorcycle.
At 78 years old, Jerry Lee Lewis was the last man standing of the four great Sun Studio artists seen in the photo now called “The Million Dollar Quartet”: Lewis, Carl Perkins, Elvis Presley and Johnny Cash.
The Million Dollar Quartet
Jerry Lee Lewis’s Motrocycle
Jason James channeling Jerry Lee Lewis
If you happen to be in Memphis on a Sunday, a visit to Reverend Al Green’s Full Gospel Tabernacle may help you repent from any sins you have committed on wild Beale Street. We thought we would be among the few white people in the congregation, but apparently word has gotten out, since the church was half full with visitors. Al certainly didn’t mind as he gleefully inquired where each person came from when he cajoled the entire congregation to file up to the pulpit to hand over our tithing.
When the music began, I thought I was at a Blues Club in Heaven. The piano player swayed in his seat, eyes closed, while the bongos, organ, guitar and bass offered divine inspiration as they accompanied the celestial choir. A tiny, robust, female soloist came forward and brought the house down when she belted out a reverent tune, clearly moved by the holy spirit. Almost everyone in the church was up on their feet, dancing in place, clapping their hands, electrified by her mighty zeal. This was exactly what I imagined a gospel choir would feel like: a truly heavenly experience.
Someone needs to figure out how to teach those ducks to play harmonica – now that would move it up on the attractions chart!
That is some serious concentration of outstanding music coming out of that city. Must have been hard to leave….although – next time you see someone in a bar pour lighter fluid on top of a piano and take out matches, I suggest running for your life!!! Memphis – giving new meaning to the term “hot music.”
Love your multilingual blog announcements
Love, Ev
Hello Manuel and Roz, my dancer partner :-),
Thank you so very much for including me in your Memphis blog. I am so very impressed with your professional work.
Thank You So Much! 🙂
Thanks for the ride!
So entertaining your writing & videos! “A character in 1 of his own dreams”-pretty cool and never knew you Roz to drink beer! Loved the “3 huge fillets arrived” & could hear your ironic disgust re: ribs & service being cold at the Rendevous Restaurant! MaryAnn said you haven ‘t lost your touch/mojo when she saw you dancing w/your new partner John! Thanks for giving us all a taste of daily Memphis life. (Including the Rev’s church scene! & running into that those musicians again) Looking forward to reading the St Louis blog!