I’m talking grapes here, not people. Apparently Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes like the cool climate. Although California has nothing to fear, Canada’s Ontario wine industry has flourished over the last 30 years, evolving into a niche maker of internationally respected late harvest wines and also Icewines, a concept that was new to us.
Calamus Winery
Looking for a nice white wine to accompany our smoked salmon brunch, Manny and I headed for the Calamus Estate Winery. In the picturesque wine tasting room housed beneath the original 1888 dairy farm’s rustic barn, we sampled a respectable Chardonnay and a Riesling, but chose a crisp fruit forward Pinot Gris to sip with our meal.
Next, we headed to a winery known for its view, its European ambiance and its eccentric owner. John Howard’s Megalomaniac Cellars (yes, you read correctly) invites his guests into the underground cellars to sample some noteworthy reds. We purchased a bottle of Pompous, a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon as much for its humorous label as for its taste.
Megalomaniac Wine Cellars
But the highlight of the day was meeting Ainsworth Pugh, who guided our visit at the Royal DeMaria winery, the premier producer of Icewine in the world. The owner, Joseph DeMaria, a former hairdresser in Toronto, bought 25 acres to start his vineyard. Specializing exclusively in Icewine can be a risky business, since the grapes require at least three consecutive days of -8 degrees Centigrade (about 17 degrees Fahrenheit) by January. The water inside the grape freezes, but not the sugar.
If the weather does not cooperate, that year’s vintage becomes virtually worthless. That fact explains why Icewines are some of the most expensive digestifs in the world, and perhaps why Queen Elizabeth purchased only 6 bottles for her jubilee visit in 2002.
Ainsworth Pugh, of Royal DeMaria Winery
Ainsworth poured us samples of Icewines ranging from the least expensive at $39 for a 350ml bottle to a 2006 Winter Harvest Malbec valued at $750. They have a sweet sherry or port-like quality, making them excellent dessert wines. The 2004 Riesling Icewine was served at the G8 Summit in Japan in 2008 and the 2008 Cabernet Franc was chosen as a gift from the Canadian government for the G20 Summit leaders in Toronto in 2010.
When we tried to cajole Ainsworth into letting us sample the most expensive Icewine in the world, the Royal DeMaria’s 2000 Chardonnay retailing at $250,000 a bottle, he just shook his head and flashed us his 1000 watt smile. “A lot of people ask that,” he said. Maybe next time, Ainsworth, maybe next time…
To the coolest couple I ever met. It is always so much fun to “see” you both in your travels. Paul and I wish you both the very best and Happy Belated Birthday to Manny! xxoo Mo
Email from Chip Schireson:
Hi Roz & Manny
Great to hear from you! I love what you are doing and it has me psyched to (possibly) follow in your footsteps–if I can convince T –and hold out for a couple of more years (12/31/15) until I can pull the trigger on my judicial retirement.. .
T & I just celebrated out 40th anniversary, and ironically we began our journey in a van –a VW Bus purchased in Utrecht, Holland (for $200). converted by me, and spent 7 months camping all around Europe and Morocco in ’73… But I like your ride a whole lot more. What a sweet RV. You guys are doing it right.
Belated birthday greetings, Manny. I’m only 2.5 years behind you!
All the best,
Chip
Manny and Roz, Just a response to let you know that I AM READING YOUR BLOG. I think you are doing it right….can you fit pontoons on the side and bring it to Panama? I guess it would be easier just driving…seriously, something to consider since you both speak fluent Spanish and you have friends to visit….
Roger
Wow, very informative and delightful too! Keep enjoying and writing. Happy belated Manny! Leslie
Email from Pedro Frohmader:
Muy interesante tu reportaje sobre el Icewine. Tambien en Michigan se produce este vino.
Mi abuelo recibia una botella de “Eiswein” de Franconia de regalo todos los años. Un sobrino tenia una distribuidora de licores y se lo mandaba. Era dulce y muy sabroso. Entiendo que se hacia con las uvas que se cortaban despues de la primera helada..
Creo que el concepto de Eiswein existe desde hace varios siglos. Se encontraron un buen nicho comercial los vinateros del sudoeste de Ontario.
Abrazos de Pedro
Manny and Roz:
Enjoyed the blog and living vicariously through your adventures. Never knew about the icewine.
Best wishes to you both-
Kevan
WOW! Sounds like a great time. Neat place, good info.
Email from Ainsworth Pugh:
hi sorry for late reply i just have been busy at work, and am glad u guys had enjoyed it